The name Vero is registered and the products are made in England.
However the genuine item can be obtained in USA by checking:-
Ebay, electronics, stripboard or veroboard.
or
Search Google for stripboard.
or
Other names and similar products are :-
Vero Board or Versa Strip Board
www.futurlec.com/ProtoBoards.shtml
product code small brd. STPBRD2 $0.95 ea. - large brd. STPBRD1 $1.95 ea
Board Dimensions: 94x53mm, 19 rows of 34 holes
http://diystompboxes.com/zencart/ go to 'boards' section
similar to above.
www.abra-electronics.com/products/ click on 'boards'
product code SKU: 0041G Vero Board $29.99
4 3/4" x 18" with 36 Rows with Holes (6400 Hole Total)
Check carefully as some board styles (Perf Board) only have a copper pad around the hole.
Newark Electrical, part # 95M0362 Genuine Vero board
100 x 120mm and 1800 holes, $11.38. Product ships from UK - $20 handling fee applies.
Experimenters Boards
www.oselectronics.com/ose_p48.htm check the 'STRIP PROTOBOARDS',
3-15/16” WIDE X 6 5/16” LENGTH
Product code 12-618.......... $3.75
Also 'PRINTED STRIP PHENOLIC' Features Alpha-numerical indexing. Tinplated land
patterns for positive pin identification.
0.1” centers x 3-1/2” wide x 6” long x 1/16” thick, .035” holes. 3” x 4”
Product code 22-506..........$6.95
useful but it has some breaks in the strips.
See www.aedwis.com/ and the PRINTED CIRCUIT PRODUCTS DESIGN AIDS
section for phenolic boards.
see www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/category/455/Perf_Boards.html
SOLDERABLE PERF BOARD, LINE PATTERN Product code ECS-4 - $6.25
6.3" x 3.94" multilayer epoxy board with copper pattern on one side. Holes on 0.1" centers.
Perf board source - Radio Shack, Main Street
Radio Shack/Tandy's experimenters board (#276-147, #276-148, #276-149).
Not strip board only holes with copper around them - rows have to be wired in.
Preparing the stripboard or Veroboard for circuit assembly.
Cut the veroboard to size. Make sure the copper tracks run in the right direction.
Sawing along the line of holes outside of the actual area to be used.
With a file or sand paper, file back the edge to remove the half holes and make it smooth.
Clean the copper side, using fine sandpaper or steel wool.
Mark the holes shown in the diagram with an 'X' on them, on the copper
side of the vero...this view is the top or non-copper side, make sure you invert.
Using a 1/8 inch drill bit, rotate it in the hole to cut through the copper strip.
Make sure the copper track is fully broken.
Burnish the copper side as the cut edges lift slightly.
On the sample placement diagram:-
The silver holes indicate where the components are soldered in.
X marks where the copper strip has to be cut.
The red lines are link wires to join different copper strips (rows).
The copper strips are not seen from the top but are on the under side of the board.
Some components are filled in and some only shaded to see detail under them.
Note this is not an actual project.
Fitting the components
Install and solder the linking wires that join the horizontal copper strips
As you solder, touch the cleaned, tinned tip to the wire and the copper.
Put the solder onto the junction and let a small amount melt.
It should run onto the copper and the wire if all is clean.
Follow with the low profile resistors and capacitors. As each lead is
soldered pull the tip up the wire so no solder spills onto adjacent strips.
Cut the excess component leads.
Lead out wires should be tinned before inserted into the board and the copper side end
bent flat onto the strip to give strength to the joint.
After soldering everything on inspect the copper side for any solder bridging the tracks.
These can be hard to see so run a craft knife along between copper strips and any
bridges will be felt as obstructions.
Making an isolated track section for a spot detector on prelaid track.
Note: The track, when isolated, must be at the same height as the adjacent track for reliable
wheel contact and detection.
Mark the places where the cuts are to be made, 2 or 3 sleepers apart.
Solder a dropper wire to the outside of the rail flange and another to the opposite rail.
Soldering is done first so the heat is dissipated along the rail.
Make a mix of 5 minute epoxy and spread it round the base to hold everything firmly.
Cut the rail with a dremel cut-off disk or razor saw, take care not to nick the opposite rail.
End the cut before it goes right through the base plastic or epoxy.
Measure with an Ohm Meter to check there is no connection to the adjacent rails.
You can fill the gap with thin film material or styrene sheet and trim flush with the rail
to prevent rails contacting when heated.
Making an isolated track section for a spot detector on unlaid track.
Mark the track and cut from the bottom through the rail flange and part way through the web.
A cut between plastic base links is best. A piece of thin metal beside the rail head will stop you
cutting too far and through the head.
Lay the track and solder the dropper wires to the outside of the track on both sides.
Secure the sleepers to the rest of the base with epoxy.
With the dremel cut-off or razor saw slice through the remaining top part of the rail.
Measure with an Ohm Meter to check there is no connection to the adjacent rails.
To insulate the cut, a piece of plastic insulation, film stock or styrene sheet
can be glued into the cut and trimmed flush.
Tunnel Stretcher, published November 2007,
The track connection needs some changes so that it
will work with multiple headed consists (MU'd locos).
The problem is that the track power can be removed when the lead loco crosses the spot detector if it is at the start of
the stopping section. The second loco's pickups will still be on the powered track and
it will try to push the now unpowered loco ahead of it.
The track connections given as:-
Should be changed to:-
This brings the detected section into the stopping section so that
all locos get onto the controlled track before the power to it is removed.
Track lengths at [A] and [B] are each to be longer than your total length of MU'd locomotives
Also [B] is to be at a distance into the tunnel so that the lead loco cannot be seen when
the last loco is stopped in section [B]. Note that with multiple locos each detected wheelset will cause a stop so the train will move forward in short
bursts until all locos clear the detected section. So for a 1 minute total time and 4 wheelsets the timer
should be set to 15 seconds.
